Replace a bathroom sink pop-up drain
Replace a leaking drain body, reconnect the lift-rod linkage and make the stopper open and seal properly.
Home · 1–2 hr · Medium
Before you start
Keep the sink out of use while disconnected and place a bucket below the trap. Do not open a drain containing chemical drain cleaner. Wear gloves and eye protection. Do not force seized parts against a ceramic basin; stop for cracked porcelain, a corroded wall connection or inaccessible fasteners.
Tools and materials
- Compatible pivot-rod pop-up drain kit with matching overflow provision
- Bucket, cloths, gloves and eye protection
- Adjustable wrench, slip-joint pliers and screwdriver
- Plastic scraper and basin-compatible sealant specified by the drain kit
Check the problem
Decide whether the body needs replacing
Dry the underside and run a little water. Look for the highest wet joint: the flange, pivot nut or trap. If the body is sound and only the stopper sticks, clean it and adjust the linkage first; a whole drain may not be needed.
Match the drain to the basin
Check the basin’s overflow and choose a drain designed for that arrangement. Compare drain-hole fit, basin thickness, tailpiece diameter and reach to the existing trap. Confirm the kit uses a ball pivot and lift-rod strap, not a cable or push mechanism.
Steps
Clear the cabinet and remove the trap
Stop anyone using the sink. Photograph the linkage, put a bucket beneath the P-trap and undo its removable nuts while supporting the bend. Empty the trap into the bucket and set its parts aside in order.
Release the linkage and stopper
Disconnect the horizontal rod from the perforated strap. Unscrew its retaining nut, note the pivot seals, then withdraw the rod and lift the stopper out from above. Keep small parts out of the open drain.
Remove the old body and clean the basin
Loosen the large mounting nut below the basin. Push the body upward enough to unthread the top flange, then remove the body from underneath. Lift off old sealant with a plastic scraper and clean and dry the mating surfaces without scratching them.
Prepare the new seals
Lay out the new parts in the kit’s order. Use its specified flange gasket or basin-compatible sealant—not both unless directed. If a separate tailpiece threads into the body, seal that connection only as instructed; washer-sealed trap joints do not take thread tape.
Fit the flange and secure the body
Join the flange and body through the drain opening as the kit directs. Point the pivot port toward the lift rod. Hold the assembly still while seating the lower gasket, washer and mounting nut; tighten as specified without twisting the seal or stressing the basin. Remove squeezed-out sealant.
Reconnect the stopper and lift rod
Insert the stopper with its bottom eye aligned for the pivot rod if using the captive arrangement. Seat the rod and pivot seals in their specified order, then hand-tighten the retaining nut so the rod moves without leaking. Attach the rod through the strap with the spring clip on both sides.
Adjust the travel and reconnect the trap
Set the strap height and pivot-rod hole so the stopper closes fully and lifts enough to drain freely. Tighten the strap screw, then reconnect the P-trap with its correct seals and no sideways strain. Follow any required sealant cure time before adding water.
Test the seal and full-basin drainage
After any cure time, close the stopper and fill the basin below its overflow. Check for water loss and wetness beneath the flange. Open the stopper and watch the body, pivot nut and trap during the full drain flow. Correct a leaking joint by reseating its seal, not simply adding more force.
Stopper opens and holds water when closed; flange, pivot and trap remain dry during a full-basin drain.
Tips
Overflow is part of the fit
A drain that fits the hole can still be wrong for the basin’s overflow arrangement.
Do not clamp the pivot solid
The ball must seal while allowing smooth rod movement. Follow the retaining-nut instructions.
Treat each joint separately
A threaded tailpiece may need sealant even though the nearby slip-joint washer does not. Follow the kit, not one rule for every nut.