Replace a bathroom faucet
Fit a compatible deck-mounted faucet and renew the supply connections without changing the sink.
Home · 1–2 hr · Medium
Before you start
Close both supply valves and prove zero flow before loosening a hose. Do not force seized valves or twist pipes in the wall. Wear eye protection below the sink. Stop for cracked mounting surfaces, damaged connections or inaccessible fasteners that would require cutting near the basin.
Tools and materials
- Compatible faucet with supplied gasket, mounting hardware and matching supply connectors
- Basin wrench or supplied mounting tool, adjustable wrench, screwdriver, plastic scraper and surface-safe cleaner
- Bucket, towels, gloves and eye protection
Check the problem
Match the holes and mounting space
Check hole count, spacing, deck thickness and handle clearance against the new faucet drawing. A cover plate must be approved for that faucet and cover unused holes completely.
Check the supply and drain arrangement
Confirm both shutoffs work and the connector sizes match. Photograph existing hoses and any lift-rod linkage. If the new faucet cannot operate the existing stopper, plan a compatible drain change separately.
Steps
Shut off and relieve pressure
Close hot and cold valves, open the faucet and confirm flow stops. Clear the cabinet and place towels and a bucket under the connections.
Disconnect the old faucet
Disconnect supply hoses into the bucket while holding the valve steady. Release the lift rod if present. Use the correct tool to remove faucet mounting nuts from below; have a helper steady the faucet above.
Lift out and clean the deck
Remove the faucet and old base seal. Use a plastic scraper and surface-safe cleaner, then dry the deck. Do not gouge the basin or enlarge the holes.
Seat the new faucet
Feed the hoses and mounting shank through the correct holes. Fit the supplied base gasket or specified sealant—not both by default. Align the spout and leave room for full handle travel.
Secure the mounting hardware
Fit the underside washer, bracket and nut in the maker’s order. Keep the faucet aligned while tightening to its instructions. It should resist hand movement without stressing the sink.
Connect and restore the supplies
Connect hot to hot and cold to cold without stretching or kinking hoses. Start fittings by hand, then tighten as specified while supporting the valves. Slowly reopen both valves and check with dry tissue.
Flush and test the faucet
Follow the maker’s flushing procedure; remove the aerator only if directed. Test hot, cold and handle movement. Refit the aerator and check base, supply joints and any disturbed stopper linkage. Tighten only the leaking connection as instructed after isolating water.
Faucet is secure, hot and cold operate correctly, and all joints remain dry with water both off and running.
Tips
Use the tool that reaches the nut
A basin wrench or supplied mounting tool reaches behind the bowl. Do not force an angled grip that rounds the nut.
Skip tape on washer-sealed hoses
Use only the seal and tightening method specified for each connection; extra sealant can interfere with the fitting.
Revisit the cabinet
Check for dampness after normal use. A drip can track down a hose from a higher connection.