Refresh a wooden dresser with paint
Give a sound wooden dresser a smooth new finish without stripping it back to bare wood.
Home · 3–5 hr + drying · Easy
Before you start
Do not sand unknown old paint until lead risk has been assessed. Work with ventilation and the protection specified by the coatings; a dust mask does not protect against vapors. Keep children away, handle the empty dresser with help, and restore its anti-tip anchoring before use.
Tools and materials
- Compatible water-based bonding or stain-blocking primer and furniture enamel
- Synthetic brush, fine-finish mini roller and paint tray
- Finish-safe cleaner, cloths, sanding sponge, wood filler if needed
- Screwdriver, hardware container, drop cloth, eye and dust protection
Check the problem
Make sure the dresser is worth painting
Check that the frame is stable, drawers run freely and the veneer, if any, is firmly attached. Fix loose construction first. Unknown old paint or a valuable antique needs assessment before sanding; peeling laminate is a different project.
Match the primer and finish
Choose furniture or cabinet enamel rather than ordinary wall paint. Match a bonding primer to the existing finish, or a compatible stain-blocking primer where wood stains may bleed through. Test the full system on a discreet prepared spot and let it dry before coating the whole piece.
Steps
Remove the drawers and hardware
Empty the dresser and move it with help onto a drop cloth in a ventilated work area. Remove drawers and knobs without dismantling glued joints. Mark each drawer’s position on its unpainted underside and keep screws with their hardware.
Wash away grease and polish
Clean all paintable surfaces with a finish-safe pre-paint cleaner. Remove cleaner residue as directed and allow the wood to dry. If wax or silicone polish remains, resolve that contamination before continuing—paint will not hide it.
Fill small dents and dull the surface
Fill cosmetic dents with paintable wood filler and let it dry. On the confirmed lead-free finish, lightly scuff with the grit specified for the primer—often 180–220—until the gloss is dulled. Keep veneer intact; there is no need to strip sound coating. Remove dust and let any damp-wiped areas dry.
Apply a thin, even primer coat
Mask runners and hardware fittings. Prime the body’s outside faces and drawer fronts with a brush or fine-finish roller, avoiding drips at edges. Keep sliding surfaces bare. Let primer dry for the stated recoat interval; smooth nibs only as directed and remove the dust.
Brush and roll the first color coat
Stir the enamel. Brush details, then roll broad surfaces in a thin, even layer. Work along the grain and maintain a wet edge; stop brushing once the paint begins to tack. Paint drawer fronts separately, leaving runners and close-fitting contact surfaces uncoated.
Let it dry and add the next coat
Wait the label’s recoat interval, then apply the next thin coat. Check edges for runs and coverage from more than one angle. Do not add wax or clear coat automatically; use one only if the paint system calls for it.
Cure, reassemble and check the drawers
Allow the specified handling and cure time before refitting hardware, closing drawers or placing objects on top. Reassemble without overtightening knobs. Restore the dresser’s anti-tip restraint following its instructions, then check every drawer opens freely and no painted faces stick.
Finish is cured for use, hardware is secure, drawers run without sticking, and the dresser’s anti-tip restraint is restored.
Tips
Drying time is part of the project
A few hours of hands-on work can span several days. Dry to the touch does not mean ready for drawers or décor.
Thin coats beat a heavy shortcut
Thick paint is more likely to sag, mark or stick at drawer edges.
Judge a dry sample
Try the color on a prepared hidden area first and inspect it in the room’s light.